Oaxaca, MEXICO — magical land of mezcal, known for its smokey spirit and rich indigenous culture. It’s been on my list since studying the ruins of Monte Alban in my architecture class in college. Thanks to a direct flight from Houston, we finally pulled the trigger to visit Oaxaca City.


5 Nights / 4 Days
STAY
Quiet, yet centrally located Airbnb –always.
DO
Hierve el Agua – A MUST! Small group, 7km intermediate hike to Hierve el Agua + mezcal tasting with Coyote Adventures. This full day tour included transportation, breakfast, lunch, mezcal and an English speaking guide. Once a sacred site for the Zapotecs, “Hierve el Agua” means “the water boils” due to the appearance of mineral water bubbling or “boiling” up to the surface. However, it is not to be confused with a hot spring.

First, hike down to the base of the calcified waterfalls and end with a refreshing dip into the pools which are said to have healing properties due to their high mineral content.

Thank goodness we did not try to do this adventure alone. We faced multiple road blockages and wild fires. And because of that, we were lucky to arrive at an almost empty Hierve el Agua.

Mezcal Tasting at La Mezcaloteca – Best to do on your first full day so you know what to look for when ordering mezcal during your stay! Booking required. Choose between 3 or 5 tastings for a deep dive into mezcal. Tastings are offered from 4p-8p every evening and last about an hour. We chose to only taste 3 as we were heading to dinner right after –which was a smart decision..

Temazcal Mariana – an indigenous cleansing ritual, perfect for your last full day in Oaxaca. You’ll start in the sauna-like steam bath while the healer chants to cleanse your mind, body, and spirit. Finish with a relaxing massage and you’ll feel brand new. The temazcal is located in a neighborhood just outside the city center, but they make it easy for you by including private transportation in the fee. Communicate by Whatsapp to make the reservation.

Monte Alban – spend a half day at the Zapotec ruins. We found a 3.5 hour experience on Airbnb which was the perfect amount of time. Go early to avoid crowds and peak sun. Don’t forget to wear sunscreen and a hat.

Mercado Benito Juarez – go shopping for textiles, food, and artisanal crafts

EAT
Los Danzantes – my #1 pick in Oaxaca. Look out for their own mezcal brand. Pictures just don’t do it justice.

Catedral – upscale vibe. Favorite smokey, black mole of the trip

Levadura de Olla – traditional Oaxacan dinner, by candlelight
Terraza Itsmo – rooftop terrace restaurant, we loved it for lunch. First order of business was ordering tlayudas.

Ocote Cocina – casual lunch spot with epic flavors. Good spot to fuel up before mezcal hopping

Tierra del Sol – best when you have time for a sit down breakfast on the terrace
Bakeries: Boulenc & KiYo for a quick coffee and freshly baked croissants
Nono Cafe – my favorite spot to grab a mid day espresso
DRINK
Zandunga – patio with a vibe, great cocktails (many passionfruit options!) , and local cuisine

Sabina Sabe – once named Top 50 Bars, really fun to sit at the bar and watch the bartenders make speciality cocktails

Los Amantes – there’s a cozy, dimly lit bar at the street level or head to the rooftop for drinks overlooking the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzman
Other places on our list that we didn’t make it to on this trip: Mezcaleria Hora Magica and Mezcalogia.
There is so much to see, do, and drink in Oaxaca! We just scratched the surface with a 4 day visit.